With the new Shoreditch Sushi Revolution a bit too far away to visit, Nick instead heads to his local in Brixton.
I’ve seen Brixton change over the years. and it still amazes me what it’s become. Cool, hip, trendy, but still noisy and ‘vibrant’. And whilst the old market has been all but eviscerated, the place still feels much the same.
Prime cool spot is The Department Store. Once the Bon Marche department store, back when Brixton was really very posh.
In fact Bon Marche was the first purpose built department store in London, created in 1877 by James Smith of Tooting after he won a load of cash at the Newmarket races.
The building was totally reimagined in 2017 with bars, restaurants, studios and workspaces and here is Sushi Revolution.
Sushi Revolution is in what was once the annexe. Walk in too quickly and you’ll bang your nose on the far wall, as it’s much wider than it is deep. Large windows deliver plenty of light for your Instas, and you will definitely want to get your phone out. The place looks great, but the food is even prettier. I’m sorry my pics aren’t better than they are, but I was eager to eat.
On a surprisingly large menu for a small kitchen ( you can see it at the end) we find all we expect – sushi, sashimi, maki, nigiri etc – but also the revolution bit.
Padron Peppers, the Spanish tapa, here gets revolutionised with yuzu mizo. The citrus and umami bounce off each other, but none of our peppers shock us with heat. Padrons are supposed to be Russian Roulette, but I’ve noticed in the past few years that they are now all very mild. Maybe it’s climate change.
More trad is excellent Yellowtail Tuna Tiradito. Again sharp yuzu is the fore working to balance the fatty fish, along with some truffle oil. Cherry tomatoes add acidity. It’s hard to eat with chopsticks, but we try.
Easier is the fried Japanese aubergine. Dense and squishy, velvety soft, and livened with beetroot, miso and onions, along with fresh coriander, and sesame. It’s off the vegetarian section and any meat eater would love it too.
Karaage Chicken Nanban, or JFC (Japanese Fried Chicken) is a winner. Nanban loosely translates as ‘foreigner’ and here indicates this isn’t standard JFC. Sure it’s had the regulation marination, and was probably deep fried twice because it’s extra crisp, but it’s lavishly topped with yuzu koshu mayo which delivers a serious chilli hit, and the pieces sit in a tangle of crunchy, moist, red onion and spring onions. Delicious, I happily scrape up the last of that mayo.
Parmesan? In Japan? Well that is revolutionary, although when you think about it miso and parmesan are both umami. Here parmesan has coated deep-fried prawns to create Panko Popcorn Shrimp. A milder chilli mayo is a treat. Great prawns.
Revolutions are great, but the old ways still work well. A plate of mixed maki is very good, although I thought the rice was a little bit soft, possibly overcooked, but it made no real difference. We tweezered them up happily.
By this point we were pretty full and not looking to eat dessert, but two chocolate browny bites were brilliant. Like eating a small chocolate from a box, but no Family Selection ever had miso on top. The contrasting flavours were indeed a revelation/revolution.
It’s rightfully busy all evening so reservations may be advisable when you go, and the food delivery companies were constantly picking up. Staff are smart, efficient and quick, and the guys in the kitchen seem able to maintain a constant flow of beautiful dishes whilst making it all look effortless and with total zen calm. No ‘Bears’ here.
Comrades, I have to tell you I have joined the Party.
www.sushirevolution.co.uk
- Brixton
- 240 Ferndale Raad SW9 8FR
- Shoreditch
- 2 – 4 Stage Plaza, Curtain Road, EC2A 3NQ