Up Norfolk way, an outpost of London is understandably wowing the locals, Nick gets wellied up for a visit
I’m used to finding restaurants by counting the numbers as I walk down the street, but for this one I’m glued to the satnav, whilst keeping a wary eye out for locals coming the other way. They really whizz down the lanes in Norfolk and they duck into the hedges only at the last possible moment.
“Turn right!” The Satnav yells, but all I can see is a pitted narrow lane, and whilst I am in a sturdy 4×4, it’s a loaner and I literally can’t afford to scratch it. We carry on, hoping the Satnav will find another way but there’s no need, a fresh sign tells us to take a brand new lane over the fields, a lane so new Googlemaps shows us driving over nothing.
Nest Farmhouse comes into view, a curiously New England style building standing almost on its own, with a small lake/pond and a terrace at the front. This is the highest point in North Norfolk, which obviously isn’t saying much, but it still means the views stretch for miles. It’s rather impressive.
Farmhouse is a seasonal British Restaurant with rooms, brought here by the team behind Nest restaurant and Restaurant St. Barts down in that there Lunnun, so our expectations are high and we are also highly hungry after sightseeing all morning.
Inside it’s very smart. It’s an airy open-kitchen restaurant and the dining section flows seamlessly into a bar and an eclectically furnished lounge area. At the opposite end to the kitchen is a wood burner, which is a warming sight.
The menu here focuses on seasonal British produce sourced from small farmers and growers as close to the restaurant as possible. Each day there are specials based on what has turned up. Today there are venison kebab starters, presumably from a recent deer cull, and there is plaice for mains, or skate to serve two.
Sat next to a big window we get a very nice view, but slightly cold legs. The ‘farmhouse’ does not run to double glazing, but it does supply comfy blankets, which is rather cute and we tuck ourselves in.
The menu is short, which is always reassuring. When I see a long menu I get a mental image of a chef diving into a giant freezer for most of the dishes. When it’s short, I relax knowing I’m in safe hands.
Obviously this part of the world is good for shellfish, so I choose Potted Norfolk Shellfish with milk bread to start. It really is all I hoped for, tiny juicy prawns, hints of yellow mussel and the white tendrils that indicate quality crab meat. I’m not entirely convinced by milk bread though, which is rather soft and floppy and with potted shellfish I like my bread served toasty and crunchy to give contrast.
P has gone for lamb neck scrumpet with a sauce grebiche. Scrumpet sounds like an authentic Norfolk word and it turns out to be cooked lamb coated in egg yolk and breadcrumbs then deep fried. I recall having something similar at Black Axe Mangal a while back.
Sauce Grebiche is a classic sauce made by emulsifying hard-boiled egg yolks with oil in a similar fashion to a mayonnaise. What makes it perfect with fatty meats, such as lamb, is the addition of chopped pickled cucumbers/gherkins/wallies, as well as capers, which all provide a good cutting edge. A very tidy dish, clean and simple and packed with flavour.
From the specials P has plaice in a buttery mussel sauce. This is a dish that relies totally on the fish being of the very best quality and this definitely is. A very thick fish, outside the spawning season, as it is now, it comes thicker than usual. Being a flat fish the belly never sees the sun and the meat is pure white. Delicious.
I have that staple of many a French village restaurant, a confit duck leg taken out its fat and crisped up. Served with lentils, fermented (still trendy) red cabbage, smoked date and little cocktail onions.
The duck is lovely, very meaty and the skin delicious. I like the just tender lentils which absorb the good juices, but I am not sure about the red cabbage. Its acidity is welcome against the duck, but the small white onions are also sharp and together they punch a bit too hard. The smoked date is unusual and I like it.
We knock back some crispy garlic potatoes on the side. Spuds are not at their seasonal best right now, but these were good, better than what remains of my own allotment crop that’s for sure.
And so to pud. We’re pretty stuffed it has to be said, but who can resist a Spotted Dick? Not us but we do share. It’s all you want from a Dick, it’s fluffy and rich and fruity and the custard could be happily drunk from a glass.
Norfolk is lucky to have such a well feathered nest.
Docking Lodge Farm, Kings Lynn, PE31 8FP
Nest Farmhouse is running a New Year’s Eve Tasting Menu to see out the year on 31st December. Designed by Head Chef Grant Cotton, the menu reflects the 1,000 acre-working farm that Nest Farmhouse sits upon, full of organic and home-grown produce guided by a farm-to-plate ethos.
For £100 per person, guests can dine on a multi-course celebration of seasonal British produce. For starters, Langoustine & Chicken Sui Mei, Oysters ‘Kilpatrick’, and Smoked Lincolnshire Poacher with a brussel sprout and apple tart are on the bill of fare. Mains include a Cuttlefish & Cauliflower Risotto, Stuffed Chicken thigh with Pickled Wild Mushrooms, or Barbecue Beef with glazed onions, and if you’re still hungry, desserts include a Chocolate Fondant with Jerusalem artichoke ice cream.
Add wine pairing to your meal for an additional £45 per person.
£100 PP. Optional wine pairing for £45. There will be 3 sittings for the Nest Farmhouse New Year’s Eve tasting menu starting at 6pm, 7.30pm, 8.30pm. Places are limited and pre-booking is essential.