That stalwart late-night haunt, Balans Soho Society, is celebrating British Food Fortnight (17 September – 2 October) by showcasing the best of its British produce on the menu.

Its chefs have put together a package of tasty dishes that pay homage to their suppliers. The excellent royal fillet of smoked salmon from esteemed smokehouse H.Forman & Son is wonderfully springy and particularly good with wasabi and radish.

South Coast Fisheries  does a mean Cornish crab which Balans serves on an explosive black cracker with caviar and celery.

The restaurant’s marshland lamb noisette is a grassy knoll of meat on bone, supplied by The Ginger Pig  which also produces Yorkshire Longhorn beef – served with burnt onions and onion puree.

A beautifully bitty, crunchy peanut butter icecream comes via Jude’s Ice Cream , a supplier which has won 25 Taste awards.

And beyond the food is the decor and ethos: the Soho establishment claims to flick the V sign at ‘twitching curtains’ and small-mindedness. Venture into Balans’ murky interiors and there’s Victorian wallpaper and filigreed lampshades setting off rudie paintings of people in pleasurable poses. Just saying.