It’s game, set and match for this Wimbledon restaurant now running a remarkable Maharashtrian menu

I have to say I was a bit apprehensive when I heard the name Bombay Delight. It’s not the sort of name that fashionable, stylish modern ‘Indian’ restaurants have, redolent as it is of the old days of flock wallpaper, pints of cooking lager and hotter than heck Vindaloos.

Never judge a book by its title though. Bombay Delight is quite a large restaurant is very modern inside, airy, well – lit and decorated in a style that’s more ‘modern apartment’, than dusty curry house. Staff are impeccably turned out and, what’s more, extremely knowledgeable about the dishes, the provenance and the cooking methods.

They ran the menu focussing on the cuisine of Rajasthan last year, so having missed it last time I was keen to get in this year. Maharashtra is where Mumbai is located, previously Bombay of course, it benefits from being on the Konkan coastline for its seafood, and from Kolhapur’s remarkable spiced cuisine.

Chef  Ajay Chaurasia is only running this unique menu for  three-months.

We obviously started with a poppadum basket with beetroot, mango and mint chutney. These rang the changes by being more varied than usual with rice papads and one that resembled styrofoam ceiling tiles. This was chewy and very pleasant when slathered with the unique chutneys, particularly good was an earthy beetroot one.

While we were eating these, waiters wheeled over the fish trolley, a pile of fresh mackerel, pomfret, kingfish and red snapper all glistening with a Maharashtrian spice marinade. I’ve never seen this in an ‘Indian’ restaurant before. We went for the pomfret and it was carried off to the kitchen to be dealt with. 

Meanwhile we dealt with Satari mutton chops marinated in Satara district spices and cooked in the tandoori oven. You need good quality chops for this and these were gnaw-down-to-the bone brilliant, the best I’ve had since Atul Kochhar served them at eye-watering prices in Benares a decade or so ago. The spicing was excellent, lots of notes and no discord, while the meat was crusty outside and moist and tender inside.

The other starter we’d chosen was Ratnagirichi Bhajleli Kolambi – marinated prawns stir fried and served with sauteed raw mango, onion, garlic and green chilies slashed to let the heat out. It’s an absolute belter of a dish, intensely hot with the chilli but balanced by the sweet mango.

It left us gasping a bit, but in a good way. With such a range of unique spices the prawns’ own flavour still came through well, it’s a dish that has to be tried by everyone who is a proper spice head.

Soon the Pomfret popped back. It’s also called Indian Butterfish and for good reason. Its thick white flesh is ‘buttery’, and for non- fish fans it has little ‘fishiness’ in its flavour. This one fell off its bones in juicy chunks all flavoured by the spice marinade on the outside. Very delicious and different.

We also had Kala chicken served on the bone, which they kindly ‘warned’ us about. I have no problem with this, the meat is always tastier on the bone and there’s deliciousness to be had scraping every last bit off, especially (if not on a first date) picking it up and going mediaeval on it.

It’s also often called  Maharashtrian Black Chicken. It’s quite a famous regional dish, smoky and with the bite of mustard seed oil which adds a pleasant bitterness. The chicken is served quite dry with a small bowl of stock for you to make your own thickness of sauce and with a mini papad and simple salad. It is superb.

We had breads of course, Tandoori Bhakri, flat breads made from sorghum flour. These were the only things I didn’t go a bundle on. Sorghum is very nutritious and the fifth most-produced cereal crop in the world, but it makes for a rather ‘biscuity’ bread.

The rice, let’s mention the rice. Not your usual basmati but Ambe Mohar Rice is an aromatic rice variety from Maharashtra, its name means “mango blossom” in Marathi. Smaller in length than basmati and more delicate it really does have the aroma of mango, it’s also slightly sticky too which means it can be picked with your fingers. A marvellous rice that is not that easy to find in the UK in less than large quantities, I know because I’ve been trying.

We shared a dessert of fresh mangoes, yogurt and saffron blended to a dreamy, creamy, delight and then a ‘digestive’ drink called made from fresh coconut milk, kokum and spices. It was certainly spicy and quite hard to finish owing to a fair bit of chill, but it did actually make us feel lightened and able to walk out.

Not that we wanted to, it had been an excellent dinner of dishes we’d never tried before and there are plenty of other dishes on this menu we’d definitely go back to try.

So it’s a big thumbs up from this spice head. If you live in South London (and if you don’t, what’s wrong with you?) then this is your go to place for a memorable meal. And if you do live in North London, your Tesla will get you here very easily and there’s easy parking in the side streets.

A great serve in Wimbledon.

271-273 The Broadway, London

bombaydelight.co.uk

Note. I was too busy eating to take photos, so I have poached some from the restaurant.