Today we visit butcher or as often dubbed ‘Il Teatro Della Carne’, with its very own ‘butchers theatre’.
Located in the theatre district right on the Shaftesbury Avenue is the latest addition to the Macellaio RC group, meaning, you guessed it – butcher – but it’s actually a restaurant.
Macellaio RC is renowned as the authentic, pioneering Italian Steakhouse with three distinct venues in London: South Kensington, Exmouth Market and the flagship Soho restaurant.
We are told most produce is sourced by the Italian owner himself, who has travelled across the Italian landscape to source from the finest producers in Italy.
The menu’s emphasis is on beef with a focus on local Italian breeds and cuts. It’s evident from the maturing spectacular cuts at the entrance to the board of steaks we are presented before the ordering begins.
Each cut is introduced and explained in detail. There is Fassona cattle – a breed native to Piemonte, in north-west Italy as well as Hertfordshire steak, Halal Sashi and Tomohawk to name a few.
I like a steak on a bone and a good fat rim so it’s Costata – a popular choice while my guest with completely opposite taste buds to mine opts for the leanest of the lean – fillet.
Since the focus here is beef we have to have steak tartare one in classic French variety for me and just pure Batuta Albese of simply olive oil, black pepper and salt.
Both tartares come from Fassona breed, known to be the leanest breed. They are simply served with crostini on the side.
It’s a generous portion and the meat is very flavorsome. When it’s done right, it’s evident in the taste, natural and buttery smooth.
We also sample a starter portion of ravioli with slow cooked fassona beef sauce.
It’s Macellaio special, a traditional homemade Italian ragu, rich with dense flavour and plenty of meat threads.
I’ve never been big on ragu sauces but even I find it enjoyable my guest, however, is an eager ragu consumer and he is completely over the moon about it.
He always orders ragus at the right restaurants when we’re out making him quite an expert now.
Shortly after is time for the steaks Costata, rib eye off the bone is presented in a theatrical way with a waiter lifting the cloche in front of the guest for an extra wow effect.
A juicy cut with just the right amount of fat rim and flaky salt, it’s simply divine, perfectly seasoned too. I asked for black pepper in advance but I didn’t even touch it once.
The meat is burgundy red and rich in flavor, it ticks all the boxes umami, beefy and savoury while remaining very tender with a smoky finish.
We could see the chefs perfecting the steaks on the flame in the open plan kitchen. Like myself, my guest is also pleased with his cut, tender, subtle and delicate.
Macelliao is quite an eye opener for us. I have visited a fair share of steakhouses of various origins from Argentina to Britain. But I wonder why London doesn’t have more Italian steakhouses.
Italian steaks are unalike. I’m not sure if it’s the breed of cattle or the Alpine air and grass that they are raised on but the flavour is really quite incompatible.
If you are ordering steak one must have sides for balance of flavours. Macellaio’s signature is carrors, roasted whole, they are so satisfyingly sweet.
The chips are also must, these are made differently, sliced ridged and round in a shape of potato crisps with mounts of parmesan shavings.
Even the tomato salad is stunning, it’s tomato season now so they’re at their very best right now with bountiful smell and freshness. To sweeten the finale we’re advised on Fiore di Latte house churred gelato. It’s served with delicately fruity olive oil and a sprinkle of salt.
I’ve actually been hearing about EVOO in gelatos for a while now but I was yet to try it for myself. It works wonders, fresh grass cut oil adds fruit and pepper to the milky gelato.
Shafesbury Ave can and normally is known to be notoriously bad for dines because of the amount of non-Londoners in the area. But don’t judge a book by its cover or a restaurant by its location I should say.
Otherwise you run a risk of missing out on some seriously good Italian specialties.
Macellaio, 39-45 Shaftesbury Ave, London W1D 6LA