Sushi, sashimi, teriyak, bento and sake. This little jewel of a restaurant will cheer you up on the greyest day, and do it all day long

There are two ways into Miyako. Enter from the street, turn right at the chef’s station and into the compact dining room. Or come in from its parent luxury hotel, Andaz, it’s just off the reception and feels rather secret as if you’ve just found a hidden room at Hogwarts. One that serves sushi.

Is it a hotel restaurant or a stand-alone then? Does it matter? The offer is fresh food, unpretentiously served and at a not all that bad price. It’s open from lunch until late, so we got there at 2:30. This meant the lunchtime eaters had gone, but people still drifted in and out.

I immediately embarrassed myself by knocking over the soy sauce pot on the table, but the staff dealt with the tsunami with patience and good humour. With this drama over, I could concentrate on my now slightly soy-stained menu.

It has all you’d expect – maki, uramaki, nigiri sushi and sashimi etc and, if you want something hot, bowls of steamy udon, plates of crispy tempura, gyoza and, to me at least, the inexplicably popular katsu curry. It always reminds me of the 1970s, even though I was barely there. There are some teriyaki dishes, too.

Head Chef Kosei Sakamoto was raised in Kyushu in South Japan before moving to Tokyo and to London. Unflappable and focused he sends out the dishes at the right speed.

We had too many dishes to detail, but the tuna tataki stood out immediately, the tuna perfectly seared for the requisite few seconds. A drop of truffle oil elevating the usual citrusy dressing. Slippery fellows to get the chopsticks around, though, I dropped them a lot.

Plates of maki went down very well, some with fish, some with veg, all dipped into my now replenished soy sauce saucer. These much easier to handle with chopsticks, but it is allowed to use your hands.

We had to use our hands on the Uramaki. Here the seaweed is on the inside and the rice on the outside. Many of these were beautiful to look at, but totally impossible to pick up without them falling apart. We simply got messy. There was of course tangles of pickled ginger and blobs of punchy wasabi to add to each mouthful. I love pickled ginger.

There was also lots of sushi, the fish as fresh as could (and needs) to be and tamagoyaki-topped nigiri sush. This rolled and sliced omelette is usually left for last as its slight sweetness makes it almost dessert.

We ate a great deal, we enjoyed all of it. This is the kind of unpretentious, but focussed, small place that makes Japanese dining enjoyable and not daunting.

Be sure to check out their Bento Box deal as well, and their ‘Business Lunch’ fixed price menu served between 3pm – 5.30pm. It looked rather good.

Website

40 Liverpool St, London EC2M 7QN

Opening Hours: Tuesday – Saturday, 12pm – 10pm.