Six By Nico’s current menu, Miami to Ibiza, shows once again that fine dining can be playful, considered and above all affordable.

If you thought you couldn’t afford a modern tasting menu, or bear the feen deening experience, Six By Nico is the place to put such worries to rest.

The deal, in case you don’t know, is that each Six By Nico restaurant runs a very reasonably priced six course menu that changes every six weeks. There are no options, except that there is always a vegetarian choice.

So when you sit down you’re already relaxed; no need for the usual ‘what’ll I have?’ dilemma, you just look at the menu and wait for the show to begin.

There are however two extras you can choose, so we did. An aperitif of  ​​Miami Vice – Strawberry, Lime, Pineapple Liqueur, Coconut Rum, Coconut Mist, and Padron Peppers, Smoked Sea Salt, Aiol,i and Pan Con Tomate with La Barca Olive Oil, Chives.

The aperitif certainly made me want to roll up my jacket sleeves and get into a Ferrari, and the dual tasters were bang on, although I didn’t get any surprise hot peppers, and I like mine a touch more blackened by the grill. The Pan Con Tomate made me wistful for Spain and Spanish breakfasts with that evocative combo of bread, tomato and best olive oil.

I like the way that at 6 all the waitstaff are sommeliers, they aren’t really of course but they have been schooled on all the wines paired with each course and can tell you just enough about them to be interesting, but not boring. Real sommeliers please take note; my food getting cold, while you tell me which side of the hill the grapes were grown on, is not a good thing.

They have a great style at 6, relaxed and modern, and while the restaurant is under an office block that’s presumably chock full of bankers, it uses wood panelling and a clever layout of zones so it doesn’t feel like it.

The Ibiza Sunset –  a Paella Bombas dobbed with saffron emulsion, surrounded by a roasted red pepper sauce dripped with a wild garlic oil, came jauntily topped with a slice of crisp chorizo and was a fine mix of textures and flavours. Perhaps my taste buds were playing up a bit, but I could have sworn the red pepper sauce was actually tomato, though.

The dishes come out at a good pace, the wait is long enough to allow time to digest and discuss, and finish your glass, but not so long that you run out of conversation.

We ooh and aah through Miami Beach – Seared Tuna, Bonito Emulsion, Cucumber, Spring Onion, Chilli Ponzu Dressing and then The Cuban, which is a pressed pork sandwich with a mustard mayo, gherkin relish, some choucroute, pickled mustard seeds, crispy kale.

Again each is a miniature treasure, assembled by minimalists but designed for major impact.

Es Vedra –  Sea Bass, grapes, samphire,celery,smoked potato,verjus and Ajo Blanco will be the dish I remember most fondly, a perfect mix of things I like to eat, while Churrasco

Rump Steak,  Bbq Rib,  Smoked Emulsion, Onions and Chimichurri was perhaps my least liked as the steak didn’t have the flavour I was looking for. Still good, it didn’t quite reach the level of previous dishes.

And so to the end, Little Havana – Coconut & Rum Parfait, Pineapple, Brandy Snap Cigar, Passion Fruit Mousse, White Chocolate Namelaka and Pina Colada.

I’m not a dessert person, I don’t have a sweet tooth, but this wasn’t sugary. It had sweetness, sharpness, fruitiness and creaminess dotted all over the plate. After this we headed for the tube extremely happy and happily not stuffed

Six By Nico’s menu is changing to Circus on July 18th, so get a move on if you want to enjoy the journey from Miami to Ibiza.

www.sixbynico.co.uk/canary-wharf/miami-to-ibiza/