Young’s pubs are consistently making great efforts to rescue old pubs from decline, this refurb is a great example of their craft.
Halfway between Brixton and Clapham, the Hope & Anchor is a massive pub that for ten years was called The Grand Union for no logical reason. Young’s bought the site, brought back its old name and recently did a massive refurbishment.
This is quite brave of them because in Brixton Market House, Brewdog, Rum Kitchen and Dogstar have all recently gone under, the latter being immediately squatted. Night life is not what it was, drinking has gone down
Hope & Anchor should buck that trend though as it’s more than just a pub
So on a rain sodden night we pop in to try a meal, being too lazy to cook. Midweek the place is quiet at 7pm but is getting busy by the time we leave.
Inside the massive space are reclaimed tiles and distressed walls in warming terracotta, green and neutral tones with dark oak wood panelling, plush velvet curtains, leather booths and low-back sofa seating. The decked-out garden has been transformed into an alpine winter wonderland in time for Christmas parties with 13 private Tiki huts and heaters
The menus have also had an upgrade with quality British ingredients with a modern twist. Electric brisket croquettes, crispy haddock tacos with pickled fennel and Urfa chilli, smash burgers, chicken parm supreme mozzarella and marinara sauce plus a Starman Shepherd’s pie with clotted cream mash.
Sundays have roasts. Choices include roast beef or roast chicken, served with crispy roasties, double egg Yorkshires and seasonal vegetables, with smaller sizes available for kids.
The late-night upstairs bar The Rebel Room has a private bar, dance floor and lounge area. Perfect for larger drinks parties, corporate events and anything in between. Upstairs is available for private hire, or a smaller section can be cordoned off to create a VIP section.
The place has lots of TV screens and the manager, a very nice man, says when the big matches are on the place has a great atmosphere and good natured crowds.
So to the menu. A selection to please that crowd with the starters/ small plates section being the most interesting. If I were a crowd I’d order a load of these lads.
As it is just us two, we order pumpkin and cauliflower bhajis with lime and coconut yogurt, and electric brisket croquettes with salsa verde. They’re both very good, the bhajis crisp and tender, although the yoghurt could have used more lime. As to the croquettes, they’re creamy and crunchy and very moreish. Good half time result.
I rarely eat burgers, unless I make my own. This kind of place though is going to sell a lot of burgers so it needs trying and I persuade my wife to have one. It’s a Smash burger (of course) with double patty, cheese, pickled onions, burger sauce and skinny fries.
It looks great, the fries are excellent, but my wife refuses to pick it up and eat it properly and instead tries to knife and fork it up with predictable disastrous results. I try bits of the wreckage and it’s a tasty burger.
I have the chicken parm and it’s sadly not a success. It looks very lost on the too large plate and needs some salad or something to liven it up. It’s also exceedingly hot, too hot to approach let alone eat. When I do finally get down to it the chicken is fine, the breaded coat is crunchy, but the puddle of marinara sauce on top, plus the mozzarella, makes it look like a failed pizza. On the plus side the fries are again excellent.
We share a dessert, Pecan tart with clotted cream and it’s very good, the cream soothing my burnt tongue as well as my disappointment with my parm.
Overall we left happy enough. The pub is not a restaurant, nor is it trying to be, it serves a great range of beers and an above average choice of food, which was ninety percent successful. I
f I was more local I’d be a regular, and I’m someone who can’t stand football!
Photos from Youngs website as it was a bit too dark for my ‘phone
www.hopeandanchorbrixton.co.uk
Hope & Anchor
123 Acre Lane
Brixton, London
SW2 5UA
www.hopeandanchorbrixton.co.uk
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